New Year’s Eve was the perfect night to open a late harvest sweet Pinot Gris wine. Badoux makes this classy Lettres de Noblesse white wine that increases in elegance and richness as it ages in the bottle. The 2011 is now perfect, with apricot and honey notes, great depth and excellent balance between acidity and […]
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The bark of wine
Uncork now: Humagne Rouge, Maurice Zufferey 2012 It was early evening as I walked across crusty January snow to the trunk of the old apple tree. Dents appeared on the white surface, small shadowed pits of snow gleaming in the late afternoon light. At 120 years the tree’s branches reach high into the sky but […]
Uncork now, Geneva white, Schaffhausen red – 30 May 2019
May and early June are for me the in-between time for wines, too cool to sip whites all evening outdoors but a night of red can feel like too much – we want to move on after a winter of them. I dropped in briefly at the end of a day of tasting organized by […]
Uncork now: a Spanish gold medal red, 15 May
Roble wines are lighter and fresher, but they don’t always bring out the best in the Tempranillo grape, called Tinto Fino or Tinto País in Ribera del Duero. The 2017 Protos version is a very good example of what this wine can and should be. […]
Uncork now: friends of asparagus, 11 May 2019
Right behind the Bains de Saillon, where I recently went swimming to kick off the annual spring fitness burst, is a farmer’s hut where I bought some tiny white asparagus. At home I cooked them in a fine risotto, and I was hooked: asparagus season was upon us. I went back to photograph some of […]