Pierre Thomas, writing in Fribourg newspaper La Liberté, points to a new quality charter for wines from two grapes in the Vully area, Freiburger and Traminer that deserve to be more widely known. When they are good they are very good.

He also reviews a group of wines produced by some of the producers who have banded together to create the charter, from a magnificent 2013 Traminer, “Fischilien” made by award-winning Christian Vessaz at Cru de l’Hôpital to the startling and lovely Freiburger by the young Simonet brothers at Domaine du Petit Château in Môtier.

This is a region that should be on your late spring, early summer list of places to explore, with stops at the small, dynamic wineries.

The wineries are holding their annual cellar open days 24-26 May, a good time to start enjoying the lakeside restaurants in the area.