Geneva escapes: Paris off the beaten path19/09/2009 by Ellen WallaceCommuning with the dead in the catacombsParis, France (GenevaLunch) – At an easy three and-a-half hour train ride (TGV), or leisurely five hour drive through rolling farmland, Paris should be on your list of weekend getaways if you live in Geneva.My family manages at least two trips a year, usually with visiting friends or family in tow. Which begs the question, how many times can you see the Eiffel Tower or walk the Champs Elysée? Here’s a recipe for wandering in Paris guaranteed to change the way you see the world’s most touristy city.First: Get an inexpensive apartment for the weekend in a low key Parisian neighborhood – Craigslist has a range of affordable listings by private parties willing to rent on a short-term basis. We paid 150 Euros for four people and two nights in a very cool 2-bedroom duplex apartment in the 11th arrondissement (a great local neighborhood previously unknown to us and packed with tempting food joints).Second: Explore the 11th arrondissement in general. Our apartment was on Boulevard de Charonne, an area full of small cafés, bars, restaurants and most importantly, bakeries. The area in a rough triangle stretching from Nation, West to the Bastille and North to the Parmentier Metro, is a rabbit warren of one way streets and great residential neighborhoods that deserves getting lost in on two feet (or two wheels as it turns out). A bakery near Parmentier MetroAt the Parmentier Metro stop we were immediately drawn into a neighborhood bakery by almond croissants and the kilo sized quiche Lorraine slices steaming the front window. Third: Check out the Paris Catacombs if you haven’t already done so. I was not sure what to expect even after reading the clip in the guide book.I took my daughter down the 60 meters (yes that’s right-not for claustrophobes) of spiral steps burrowing under the sewer lines and electrical grid in the neighborhood around the Denfert-Rochereau metro stop.The site is part natural history museum, and part mausoleum for the hundreds of thousands of souls interred there.If you have ever enjoyed the spiritual aspect of strolling through an old cementary, you will appreciate the subdued nature of this homage to Paris dead dating from the 18th century.Catacombs, it's a long way down (and up!)While my daughter was impressed by the bold display of human bones, I found the space more meditative than macabre.Fourth: Borrow a bike from Velolib, the City of Paris’ nearly free bike service, available all over town. This amazingly convenient service was originally designed for Parisians going to the movies, or to the bar, however it has been adapted now to suit visitors as well. How does it work for non-Parisians? Simple, you find one of the Velolib bike stands, located every 300 meters, register a 150 Euro deposit on your credit card at the nearby bike pay meter, and you have two wheeled transportation all over town.The machine issues a paper ticket for visitors, with a code which when entered, unlocks a given bike in the rack.The bike can be returned to any Velolib stand in the city, at which point the paymeter registers the bike’s return. The only caution to remember, as a friendly resident informed us, is that some bike stands in the center of the city, or at tourist hotspots, tend to be fully occupied more often than not, and you may have to look around for an empty rack for drop off.Fifth: Ride your bike outside of the tourist loup of Île de France, including the lightly trafficked (at least during our visit) Jardin des Plantes which is also home to the Natural History Museum. The subdued atmosphere and extensive flower gardens bordered by tree-lined walkways is perfect for a picnic, or just to get lost for a while in an urban “forest.” Chartier Restaurant MenuSixth: Finish the day off with a small feast at the Chartier restaurant, a favorite of locals and tourists alike, located in the Montmarte neighborhood.The fare runs from calf’s head, to pig’s feet, to tripe, to lamb chops for the less adventurous, and somewhat surprisingly, given the location and the historical stature of the establishment, for under 20 Euros a plate. I loved the atmosphere; cathedral ceiling with wall murals, basic, shared table arrangements, and efficient service.In a moment of mental instability I ordered the lamb chops (exactly as advertised) while my wife got the Tendron de Veau, or calf cartilage in a Milanese sauce; the tendron won hands down. Both plates were ample, served with fries, and on the table within ten minutes.Restaurant Chartier in ParisFine dining it is not, but the quality was good, the atmosphere entertaining, and all for the price of a couple of nutella crepes on the Seine.This was the perfect end to a great couple of days in a Paris I felt I had rediscovered.Share this:Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window)Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window)Click to share on Pinterest (Opens in new window)Click to share on Tumblr (Opens in new window)MoreClick to email a link to a friend (Opens in new window)Click to print (Opens in new window)Click to share on LinkedIn (Opens in new window)Click to share on Reddit (Opens in new window)Click to share on Pocket (Opens in new window)Like this:Like Loading...