Givrins

Top picks, reds from Vinea fair

03/09/2016 by Ellen Wallace 2 Comments

Not crowd-friendly, but efficient way to get around

Pregnant tents, before the opening of Vinea 2016

We kept ending up at the same stands, and everyone loved his t-shirt

Serge Heymoz

Maurice Zufferey

Nice to be in the VIP garden

A Swiss award-winning wine from Vaud, disease-resistant Swiss grape

Producer Philippe Bovet, Swiss Wine Exporters Association head Nicolas Shorderet

Part of the Vinea team with director Elisabeth Pasquier, keeping things running smoothly

Citizen-soldiers like wine, too

End of the afternoon, chairs, yes!

An interesting new option for ordering wine at cellar prices

Maurice Zufferey

VIPs get to start with Maurer sparkling wine

Lovely reds from Valais

mmmm again!

What a surprise to be sought out by Vinea visitors from Beijing

Isabella Kellenberger somehow looking fresh even at closing time

Great food from Zermatt chefs for the VIPs

mmmm

Denis Mercier

Derek Shaw came up and introduced himself as a big fan of my book on Swiss wines, Vineglorious! – what author can resist a request for a photo after that, right?

I normally opt to taste a lot of Pinot Noir at the Vinea Wine Fair, but this year my focus was other reds, in particular Gamays and Cornalins. My notes on favourites from tasting them yesterday – Friday – follow, ending with other reds that were among my top wines tasted at Vinea.

This year I didn’t include any whites – there’s a limit to how many wines I can comfortably taste while chatting with producers and other people I bump into (see photos). And there are beautiful white wines at Vinea, so I recommend that other visitors select one or two white grape varieties that interest them, taste those and then move on to some reds.

Tip: if you’re tasting tank-made and oaked versions of the same grape, taste the oaked ones after you’ve done the others.

It’s hot – be sure to carry a bottle of water with you and drink between visits to producers.

Best of the Gamays, rated

tent 7, Cave Philippe Bovet in Givrins, Vaud – Gamay Pacifique 2014, oaked: Rich and elegant, much fruit on the nose, dense and fruity in mouth. The rare case where oaking helps make a real “wow” wine.
tent 3, Domaine la Rodeline in Fully, Valais – Gamay Les Terrasses de Claudine 2015: nose with lovely slightly spicy, herby notes, light but complex in mouth, mouth-filling, medium-long finish. Very classy.
tent 5, Cave Les Deux Cîmes in Le Trétien, Valais – Gamay 2015: beautiful deep red robe with bright highlights, a nose that begins with herbs and spices and quickly evolves to fresh fruits, rich and satisfying in mouth. A charmer. (be sure to try his Black Magic blend at some point during the day)

Very honourable mention for:

Cave Philippe Bovet’s other Gamay, Atlantique, which is not oaked
Cave Alain Emery (tent 7) in Aigle, Vaud, for Gamay Beauregard 2015, which is a light, clean and very honest Gamay that is fun on its own and will go with anything from pizza to roast chicken
Cave Philippe et Véronyc Mettaz (tent 8) in Fully, Valais, for Gamay Les Mûres 2015, a more delicate nose than some, elegant.

Best of the Cornalins, rated

tent 18, Cave Maurice Zufferey in Sierre, Valais – Cornalin Viouc 2014, oaked: deep purple robe, magnificent nose of black cherries with a hint of cocoa and spiciness, almost toasty, a mouth that is all complexity, rich fruit and elegance.
tent 18, Cave Anne-Catherine et Denis Mercier in Sierre, Valais – Cornalin 2015: deep purple, nose that is complex and yet subtle – Denis calls it a “juvenile” wine (bottled just a few weeks ago) and it will be luscious with a bit more time, a mouth that is all cherries and black fruit. It’s not on their list of wines presented, so you will have to ask for it.
tent 6, Cave La Romaine in Flanthey, Valais – Cornalin Cuvée des Empereurs 2015: a nose that is rather subtle but that will open more readily in two to three years; for a Cornalin that is not oaked, this offers a mouth that is remarkably concentrated and rich. The vines are grown at a lower altitude than the winery, “for what we want to do”, says oenologist Vincent Tenud: concentrated, powerful Cornalins. I was delighted to hear the cellar is coming out with an oaked (2 years) version at the end of 2016, just in time for Christmas gifts.

Very honourable mention goes to:

Domaine des Muses in Sierre, Valais – Cornalin Tradition 2015, rich and opulent, spicy finish, still a bit young but going places. I was reassured by this, because I recently served the 2o14 at a tasting session in England, and it was austere, with fruit in the background, atypical for a Cornalin where Bing and black cherries should leap to mind. Discussing it with the grower who was serving the wine, it’s clear that 2015 was a big fruity year. Denis Mercier, also from Sierre, told me with a shake of his head that 2014 “was a very complicated year” for Cornalin growers, and the wines reflect that.
Cave Maurice Zufferey for his other Cornalin, a 2015 that is not oaked and where the tannins are more obvious than the oaked version; fruity and rich and pleasant, still young – this is a wine I want to drink again in another couple years when the tannins will be better integrated.

Note that I did not have time to try Cornalins from producers who traditionally make excellent versions: Jean-Marie Pont (tent 19), Domaines Rouvinez (tent 19), Gregor Kuonen/Caveau de Salquenen (tent 12), Vins des Chevaliers (tent 12), Cave de la Madeleine (tent 13) – the latter, wines made by André Fontannaz, doesn’t have it listed, and he usually sells it out quickly because his Cornalin is beautiful as a rule.

The best of a mix of reds: my selection, not rated

Note that I did not include Pinot Noirs, here, beautiful wines that for me are in a class of their own, almost too delicate and elegant to be compared to bigger reds. In addition to the Cornalins and Gamays:

tent 12, Vin d’Œuvre, Leuk-Stadt, Valais: Humagne Rouge Born to be Wild 2014, possibly the best Humagne Rouge I’ve tasted – it has all the rustic side that we expect with this grape, fruit-laden and dense, but it manages to be elegant at the same time. Billy-Joe the farmer goes Urban chic and succeeds.
17, Cave Les Sentes, Sierre, Valais: Serge Heymoz’s 2015 blend of Syrah (60%) and Cornalin (40%) – you’ll have to ask for it, not on the listed wines. Simply seductive! Lovely and fruity nose, very smooth in mouth, big and long finish. Mmmmm.
tent G (Ticinowine), Brivio: 2013 blend Vigna d’Antan, Merlot (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) and Cabernet Franc (10%). Some of Bordeaux’s grapes, with emphasis on the Merlot. Elegant and a wonderful balanced wine for any occasion.

2015 harvest: simply beautiful

10/09/2015 by Ellen Wallace Leave a Comment

David Kind’s grapes and fine old oaks, at Terre-Neuve in St Prex, Vaud – expect quiet roads to suddenly come alive now

Vines waiting for the harvest to start, Salgesch, Valais 9 September 2015

GENEVA, SWITZERLAND – The weather gods have been good. The 2015 grape harvest is officially underway in many areas and we can now say it: very good to great wine grape quality in most parts of Switzerland, with a slight dip in quantity. The sun has been shining, the evenings have been cool, the rain has held off. In short, it’s turning out to be close to a wine producer’s dream year, which is good news for wine-lovers, too.

But. The harvest isn’t in yet, for the most part, and wine producers, remember, are farmers. Don’t expect them to get excited just yet. Things could still go wrong. Rains could suddenly drive hard and rot the grapes before they can be rushed to the cellar, the biggest worry at this point.

Still. The grapes are beautiful and abundant without excess. Regional news reports from the three largest wine-producing cantons of Valais, Vaud and Geneva carry interviews with cantonal grape experts and their reports are rosy.

Review of the 2015 grape year

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Here’s what happened right in 2015, at crucial points in the grapevine’s season:

Flowering – We had enough rain but not big storms, no major frost. Just as for fruit trees, this is a critical moment. If there is too little water at this point, there are fewer and smaller berries. Gilles Cornut from Cave Cidis/Uvavin, who is also head of the Vaud growers association, told Le Temps at the end of August that the lower rainfall in the spring means the quantity of grapes is 15-20% down. Producers with whom I spoke last weekend at the Vinea wine fair in Sierre confirmed that quantities are lower in Vaud, but not to the same extent as in Vaud and Geneva.

Quotas – Cantons set quotas, part of the programme to limit yields (fewer grapes on a vine generally mean better quality grapes) and maintain decent wine stocks without flooding the market with lesser wines. Vaud, for example, said at the start of the season that the La Côte region could slightly increase its yields for red wines, Gamay excepted, and Chablais could go up a bit for Chasselas, compared to 2014. But in the end the quotas are not an issue this year because nature reduced the yields for the growers.

One square metre of vines should be giving under 1 litre, except for simpler vin du pays wines, and the precise amount depends on the grape variety and the region.

June-July vine growing – We had unusually warm temperatures, which speeded up vine growth and by the end of July we were hearing musings, not yet predictions, about a very early harvest. What the rest of us noticed was not just the heat, but the dryness, with beaches and gardens looking sadly thirsty. Vines have very deep roots, often several metres down, and dryness is usually not a major problem. Raymond Paccot at La Colombe in Féchy, Vaud, puts it in perspective, noting that for older vines, especially those treated biodynamically, the dry spell wasn’t a problem, for they can find the water. The younger vines, planted in soil that drains well, had to be watered, to avoid their younger, smaller roots from drying out.

Pinot Gris grapes as they change: the veraison, next to the Rhone River, Valais, 30 August 2015

Veraison – The point at which grapes begin to change colour and take on their final tones, a process of several days. The hard skins begin to soften. The summer’s heat was suddenly replaced for a week or so by cool temperatures and heavy rainfall in many areas, causing the vines to suddenly put more energy into their shoots, which is not what the grower wants at this point. The energy should be going into the grapes. Happily, the heavy rains were short-lived, allowing growers to put up protective netting, for this is the time when birds and wasps begin take a great interest in grapes, which are now easy for them to pierce.

Pre-harvest – The moment when we all want sunshine and warm days; for a grower this means the grapes are ripening, with the sugar level rising and acidity falling. Cool nights allow the vines a moment’s respite. The goal is balance, and in 2015, this is what we are getting, so far. “The perfect programme for grapes to ripen,” says Joel Briguet from Cave La Romaine in Flanthey, Valais. As one sunny day moves into another and the grapes look and taste good, we can finally say that 2015 is a very good year. “Not quite as good as 2003, also a very warm year”, I’ve had several growers say – remember, they are farmers, a cautious group – “but still very, very good.”

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Suzukii damage was less in 2015 due to hot weather, but some growers nevertheless used the experimental technique of putting ash on the grapes to make the colour less attractive to the beetles - St Prex, Vaud, September 8, 2015 — Suzukii damage was less in 2015 due to hot weather, but some growers nevertheless used the experimental technique of putting ash on the grapes to make the colour less attractive to the beetles – St Prex, Vaud, September 8, 2015

Bonuses in 2015 – The plague of Suzukii beetles that caused trouble in 2014 and promised more for 2015 apparently didn’t like the hot, dry weather, and it failed to cause much damage. Neuchatel was hit by hail, but otherwise most areas were spared major hailstorms. Powdery mildew was kept to a minimum. Many producers were able to use fewer disease-control treatments on their vines. The grape bunches are mostly healthy, as a result.

Philippe Bovet in Givrins, Vaud, is very upbeat. After the massively destructive hailstorms in 2013, which destroyed much of his vineyard, the vines are producing happily again, and stocks are getting back to normal. “I’ll have wines again for those people who were disappointed, and that’s great, really great!”

Winemakers from Valais, Vaud, Ticino, told me they’re happy about the 2015 harvest.

Catherine Mercier, Sierre, Valais

Philippe Bovet, Givrins, Vaud

Francesco Tettamanti, Agriloro, Ticino

The harvest – Switzerland’s now 30-year-old drive for top quality wines is partly responsible for a shift in harvest times. Growers have more freedom to decide themselves, based on several factors, mainly the full ripeness of the fruit. Grapes in Switzerland have three “periods”, so that some, such as Pinot Noir, ripen before others, and each vine parcel has its own micro-climate, with its own ripening schedule.

Electus 2010, the top wine from Provins tasted last week - a world-class top wine from Switzerland — Electus 2010, the top wine from Provins tasted last week – a world-class top wine from Switzerland

Managing this well in addition to scheduling and having housing ready for grape-pickers, who often work the harvest in other areas or countries, is tricky. The harvest this year runs from early September to November or late December or possibly even later for the sweet late-harvest wines, where grapes are left to wither on the vines but harvested before they are hit by freezing weather.

The rest of September and October will be a busy time on back roads throughout Switzerland, where 15,000 hectares are devoted to vineyards. Use care on the roads and be patient, because tractors aren’t speedy, and there are a lot of people out there working the vines.

You’ll be thanked, come spring, when the first new wines are uncorked, and Switzerland’s drive to make top quality wines will be on display with yet another fine vintage. Wait a few months longer and you’ll be able to sip the 2015 reds – personally, I’m saving up now to stock the cellar.

Beer for same taste, wine for exploring taste

11/12/2014 by Ellen Wallace Leave a Comment

Wine producer Philippe Bovet, Givrins, canton Vaud, checking the vines in September 2014

The BBC has a fine article on how science has helped beer in recent years, much of it focusing on one of my personal favourites, Guinness.

Part of the message is that beermakers seek consistency and go to great lengths to make sure a Guinness is a Guinness is a … you get it, the same beer the world over, year in, year out.

I like that. But while consistency in beer is a good thing, albeit with a lot of diversity and three cheers for the new microbrewery boom, the thing I love about wine is just the opposite.

Fine wines should certainly have some consistency, reflecting the personality and craftsmanship of the winemaker, but they should also vary from one year to the next, reflecting nature’s stamp on a year.

Beers remind us of a taste, and they let us off easily – no need to remember what the last Guinness tasted like because this one is the same, and so is the next.

bursins sun vines_141114 — Bursins vines at harvest time 2014 – a very different sight compared to 2013, after the vines were hit by major hail storms

Good wines make us work a little harder. Do you remember the hail storms of summer 2013 that plowed through part of canton Vaud? Do you know that despite a dramatic drop in grapes harvested, it was a good year because the yield was low (concentrated grapes) and autumn weather was fine? And that some wineries had to take dramatic steps to ensure they could stay afloat financially.

Even if you’re not enough of a devotee to care about vintages you can appreciate that a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc from Philippe Bovet in Givrins or a Gamay from the Frères Dutruy in Founex, for example, or a Chasselas from Domaine Delharpe in Bursins, is a treasure because there will never be another one quite like it, past or future.

It’s like having another good friend at the table, who isn’t entirely the same person he was last week, and you know he’ll have changed again, a bit, next year.

Friendship is a fluid relationship, just like the one we have with wines we love.

When are grapes ripe?

01/10/2014 by Ellen Wallace Leave a Comment

Adapted from Ellen’s Garden World, published 1 October 2014

The grape harvest has begun in Switzerland, but many of the best growers are holding off for a few more days.

As the author of the first book in English on Swiss wines in 20 years (Vineglorious! Switzerland’s Wondrous World of Wines), I’m out in the vineyards talking to growers and taking photos.

Chasselas grapes, nearly ripe, Tartegnin in canton Vaud 30 September 2014 – brown areas are the equivalent of freckles, bronzed by the sun, and little brown specks are due to copper, used sparingly, even by organic growers

This week’s lesson comes from Philippe Bovet, one of the country’s top wine producers, who insists that people pick fruit in general, and grapes in particular, too soon.

The only way to tell if grapes are at peak ripeness is to taste them daily.

Some growers in canton Vaud are picking their Chasselas grapes this week, but for Bovet, that’s probably 10 days too early.

“I don’t measure the sugar anymore – I just keep tasting them,” he says, vine parcel by parcel, to ensure they are picked at the optimum moment.

Chasselas skin should melt in your mouth and not leave a slightly bitter aftertaste. As they ripen, these grapes become more translucent when the sun shines through them.

Bovet’s team began picking Chardonnay and some Chenin last week for his sparkling wines, but the rest of the grapes are being given more time.